Atag Heating Technology full strip down and review so first of all we will start with the jig. My name’s Allen Hart, and today we’re gonna do a full review and strip down of the ATAG heating technology boiler range. Always make sure you use a gas-safe registered engineer when working with boilers.
First of all, we’ll start with the jig. The jig on this has the expansion vessel built in. With this jig, all the pipes can go up the left and the right hand side. As you can see there, there’s lots of space for the pipes. To take the expansion vessel out on this boiler, you will probably need to take the boiler off the wall. You maybe have to take it off the back, if the flow goes sidewards. You need about 370 mil space, so you can pull that expansion vessel out the top.
I believe that this is an 8-liter expansion vessel. It may be that you need to fit a bigger expansion vessel anyway. You can get a remote expansion vessel kit, so the boiler will connect straight back to the wall. Then you can use this bracket with the strap with your existing expansion vessel. By fitting the remote kit, you can save about 90 mil from the depth of the boiler, which will then make this boiler a cupboard-fit boiler. The depth of the boiler, then, will be at 265 mil, so it’s very small.
Once you have the back jig on the wall, the expansion vessel will connect on this connexion, out the front of the boiler, making it very easy for the future. If you have any problems with sludge blocking this pipe, you can easily disconnect it and take it off and clean it out.
Well, first of all, we’ll unclip the top there, and on the other side there. The whole case will come forward. You’ll notice on the case here, that’s the case. This is because the case has got a physical seal on, and obviously it doesn’t itself, naturally, through any screws or anything like that. Put it somewhere safe.
The case has been put somewhere safe. The next thing you need to do is remove the silencer there on the air intake. It’s on some Velcro, just here, and that’ll physically lift up and off. That needs to go somewhere safe, too. We also need to disconnect two plugs from the fan. There’s one. There’s two. Undo the gas valve. Obviously, this is normally tighter. I’ve done, for the purpose of the video, I’ve loosened it with the spanners. the gas valve will just come straight off.
We need a 4 mil Allen key. This 4 mil Allen key can be used to pretty much dismantle most of the boiler. Off like that. One. They both turn inwards. Two. The bars slide forward. There’s one. There’s two. Now, we need to gently slide the whole burner forward. Take it out with the fan. Like so. It’s an EBM fan. Ceramic burner. The burner may just need brushing, if it’s particularly dirty or anything. This is a new boiler. You also need to check on the back, removing this clip here, which I shall do in a minute. If you just want to look in the heat exchange there, you’ll see the tubes. I’ve just unclipped this clip here with a flathead screwdriver, something in there, just to pry it out. Gently remove the ceramic burner. Easy as that. Check the burner seal. Make sure that it’s in good condition. It’s also worth noting that when we do remove these, these seals have to be replaced.
We’ve shown you a full strip down today of the actual boiler. That needs to be done every four years, or if the actual full gas analysis is out. Every four years, these seals need changing. This is brand spanking-
To take the gas valve out, you’ve got two little caps that go into the top of the boiler there. Then, you’ve got two 4 mil Allen key connexions. There’s a plug on here, outside. Then, what we do is undo these nuts. Then, the gas valve will just pull out, like that. This side of the gas valve doesn’t have a nut on it. It’s just on the narrow end. If you see there, it’s just got the narrow end. To put that back in, you just push that back on there, and you tighten the screws back on the top.
Then, I can just show you now, putting the burner back in. Just slide it in and connect it. I’m just putting the plugs back in, into the front. Then, just the top, put adjustable spanners.
Should you need to take the plate out on this, there’s one screw there, which again is a 4 mil Allen key. There’s one screw there. All you do is undo them two . Lift out, lift the head off. Then just slide the plate heat exchanger out, just there. This is a bit of an easier way to show it. You can just see there how easy they are to undo. Then you can just lift them straight out.
The boiler’s got a Grundfos pump; it’s a 15 75. The inside. The capture is brass. It feels like a very good quality The flow turbine on these is made by Honeywell. The blower from these, on the front of the boiler. It’s also combined with the so you’ll not blow off the drill. If ever you did need to take it out, if you have a look there, there’s just a clip. Just push that clip out.
